La Pena
Is a little cafe on one corner of the square. they serve an excellent round tamale and rich, strong coffee in unique delicate, elegant cups with thin walls and a very pretty light brown coffee colored glaze. they do not sell the cups. the cafe also hosts music and poetry fests.
The very touristy looking place on the corner as you pull into Tilcara, with a woman's name, has mediocre food, service and dining.